Noche de Lobos
Traveling to Oaxaca is unlike visiting any other city in Mexico. The airport is much smaller. It seems like immigration keeps a close eye on those who enter; they make you earn. You are greeted almost immediately by hospitable travelers, locals and service workers. Montelobos in connection with ‘Another Round Another Rally’ secured all our transportation needs. Another Round Another Rally is a non-profit organization with a focus on supporting the hospitality industry. Earlier this summer, Team ARAR hosted three online educational sessions that included bartenders from all over the US. We were educated in Mezcal production, its history and the methods Montelobos employs to produce Mezcal sustainably. I was selected from the group to attend the in-person immersive experience in celebration of Mezcal, Noche de Lobos.
After settling into our centrally located hotel, we convened at Otro Mezcal for cocktail hour. This venue is modern and very chic with a minimalist bar and talented bartenders. Looking at the clean lines and contemporary design felt like I was in a posh bar in Lisbon not Oaxaca. We sipped Mezcal Negronis before joining a parade down the streets of Centro Oaxaca City. The procession was led by a group of women dressed in traditional Oaxacan attire. Each senorita held a basket of fruit and flowers on their heads called cempasuchil. Their dances and chants were in celebration of the abundant harvest and gratitude for their good fortune. Every so often, the ladies shouted, ‘Viva Oaxaca!’ in a tone that would be heard and felt by the entire parade.
As the parade concluded, we were led to the Centro Gastronomico. This venue felt like a museum. Every piece of furniture and decor looked like art. We whet our whistles on a few more Mezcal cocktails and nibbled on smoked cheeses. It was at this point that I realized that Montelobos was all about the BIG reveal. Seemingly out of nowhere, a door opens and we enter a room full of marigolds and glowing candles.
I quickly looked for a spot with the best view of the altar in the middle of the room.
While I was impressed by the range of Mezcal cocktails offerings, I was equally as impressed by the water program. We were offered a variety of infused waters to accompany our meal. I requested Maize water (which had a mild sweetness and slightly nutty flavor.) Our six course meal was made more magical by the enchanting music performed by ‘No Borders for Lovers’.
At day break, we venture to the mountains of Santiago Matatlan to visit where Montelobos Mezcal is made. We were led through the entire production process from the agave cultivation and harvesting to milling, fermentation and distillation. We witnessed the burial and subsequent smoking of the agave. The jimadors perform a delicate dance of tossing huge pinas in a pit and avoiding the fumes ruminating from the smoldering flames.
Meanwhile, Montelobos owner and agave PhD, Ivan Saldana, showed us the proper way to taste Mezcal. We paired Mezcal with infused salts and sliced tomato. My favorite combination was the Tobala Mezcal chased with a bite of green tomato dipped in hibiscus salt. A simple culinary treat.
We were then treated to more traditional Oaxacan food throughout the remainder of the evening. A feast of mole, atole, tlayudas and chapulines awaited us in what seemed like a desert oasis situated in the Mixe region of Oaxaca. Musical acts of varying genres serenaded us as the sunlight was replaced by moonlight and the pack was fully activated. The valley filled with Mezcal and movement as a mystical energy took possession of us all.
The final day of Noche de Lobos was the most cultural enriching engagement of the entire experience. My group ventured to Monte Alban, a UNESCO World Heritage Cultural Site. The former grand capital of the Zapotees, now serves as a testament to the innovation and organization of Oaxacan. Our tour guide was incredibly knowledgeable and added much needed context to the Oaxacan story.
We convened at Casa Oaxaca for a complete culinary and sensory experience. We were encouraged to wear all black to our final meal curated by Oaxacan Chef Alejandro Ruiz. We were led into the venue by Catrinas, Tiliches and diablos. After receiving a spiritual cleansing and blessing from an anointed Muxe, we were ushered into the main dining area. The courtyard was dripping in marigolds and candlelight navigated us into the venue. Dancers captivated us with their elaborate masks and haunting moves. In contrast to our previous seated dining experience, this night was more free form.
Food stalls lined the perimeter of the garden venue. I hopped in line for fire roasted pork and beef. As the evening progressed, the music intensified and the energy was transformative. After a sufficient amount of Pechuga, Montelobos unveiled its piece de resistance, its final reveal; a door opened behind the stage and a glowing light permeated from the room. Upon entry, we were introduced to dancers hanging from the ceiling and a beautiful Montelobos bar serving more delicious Mezcal cocktails. Despite having a 6AM flight to Houston the following day, I ordered another ‘El Bandido’ cocktail (Montelobos Espadin – Ancho Reyes Verde – Lime Juice – Simple Syrup) and marveled at all the connections agave has made.
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